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Contents
17
FEBRUARY-MARCH 2023
S$8.50/Rp85,000
CULINARY ENTERTAINING
13 TOP TOQUE 18 COVER STORY
Perfect pairings: How two husband- Healthy, vegan and diabetic-
and-wife teams keep the flame alive friendly desserts by Delcie Lam of
in and out of the kitchen Delcie’s Desserts and Cakes
32 KITCHEN
Ask a chef: Humble Bakery WINE & SPIRITS PERFECT PAIRINGS
Two husband-and-wife teams
share how they keep the flame
INDULGENCE
WITH INTENTION
Healthy and inclusive desserts
SWEET
SHOWSTOPPERS
Find out where to get your daily
48 VINE EXPECTATIONS
alive in and out of the kitchen by Delcie's Desserts and Cakes dose of desserts in Bali and Jakarta
Contents
70
25
68
LIFESTYLE
58 SEEN & SAVOURED
Workshop on European Food;
Norwegian shellfish on board the
Statsraad Lehmkuhl; 9th Annual Design REGULARS
Excellence Awards 2022 4 EDITOR’S NOTE
The Sweet Life
66 PERSPECTIVES
Clint Nagata, founder and creative 8 EPICURE’S CHOICE
partner of BLINK Design Group The Macallan Harmony Collection;
Bulgari Il Cioccolato; Very Dairy milk;
70 LUXE STAYS Snow Globe
Conrad Bangkok and Conrad
Koh Samui 10 FLAVOURS
Asia’s cacao renaissance
75 COOKBOOK CRITIC
Good & Sweet: A New Way to Bake 84 FOOD TALK
with Naturally Sweet Ingredients Don’t sugarcoat it
Four Course Set
11th February to 14th February - Available All Day
Editor’s Note
The content of this promotion campaign represents the views of the author only and is his/her sole
responsibility. The European Commission and the European Research Executive Agency (REA) do not
accept any responsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contains
CULINARY
Epicure’s Choice
SMOOTH OPERATOR
Following the launch of The Macallan Harmony
Collection Inspired by Intense Arabica, The Macallan
has unveiled the second coffee-inspired edition,
The Harmony Collection Smooth Arabica. Drawing
inspiration from the Ethiopian Arabica coffee bean,
Smooth Arabica conveys the flavours of a gently spiced
and soft americano, which come through at an ABV of
40%. A combination of American and European oak
casks was selected to achieve the distinctive notes
offered by the single malt – rich and satisfying elements
of coffee, along with sweeter and softer vanilla notes for
a balanced and rounded experience. The product is a
Global Travel Retail Exclusive available at Changi Airport
Lotte Duty Free stores. www.themacallan.com
• 9 •
CULINARY
Epicure’s Choice
No Cows Needed
Is Very Dairy the future of milk? It’s something you’ll
have to try and decide for yourself. Very Dairy milk is
made entirely without cows, using food tech company
Perfect Day’s revolutionary animal-free whey protein
to provide the same nutritious goodness as traditional
milk. It is not plant-based, though. Microflora are given
the same genetic code for whey protein, fed plant
sugar, then through the process of fermentation (similar
to making bread or beer), convert these ingredients
into the whey protein which is structurally identical to
what one finds in traditional milk. The process is said
to be kinder to the planet as it uses less water and
energy, and emits less greenhouse gasses. The milk is
lactose-, cholesterol- and hormone-free, low in sugar
and saturated fat. Three flavours – Plain, Chocolate and
Strawberry – are available at FairPrice, Cold Storage, A MAXIMALIST APPROACH
Giant Hypermarket and RedMart at $4.95 for 1L.
If conventional Scandinavian-centred design
styles are not your cup of tea, consider
Snow Globe. From lounge chairs and
plush cushions, to decorative vases and
dining room essentials, the furniture brand’s
collection blends maximalism and art to
elevate your home. Some of the latest
luxury art deco furniture and home items
include the fragmented Mirano Mirror,
curvy gold-trimmed Bianca Curved Sofa,
and gold hexagonal Georgia Honeycomb
Coffee Table. Customers are also able to
customise and “edit” any of their furniture
designs to fit into any space – a much-
welcomed service that will definitely help to
curate our ideal spaces. www.snowglobe.sg
• 10 •
CULINARY
Flavours
ASIA’S CACAO
RENAISSANCE
Dedicated smallholder farmers and ardent
BY
KENNETH
LEE
craft chocolatiers are giving Asian cacao beans
– a crop once held in low regard – their well-
deserved time in the sun.
Chocolate Dome
• 11 •
CULINARY
Flavours
A
lmost all good things in the world require beans come from South America, where the cacao
time and effort, and chocolate – bittersweet, tree is native to; as well as West Africa – the Ivory
complex, velvety, fudgy chocolate – is no Coast, Ghana, and the like – the other global hub
exception. The confection is the result of weeks of cacao production post-colonisation era.
of labour and expertise exercised over manifold But it might surprise you to know that cacao
steps, creating a sweet adored for centuries from trees aren’t only found in Peru and Brazil – they
its inimitable and utterly humble base ingredient, can also be grown in places like Pahang, Malaysia,
the cacao bean. and Ba Ria in Southeast Vietnam. Likewise, the
Its irreplaceability, much like a grape in a highly beans harvested from these trees can be turned
regarded wine, lies in the bean’s provenance and into chocolate, if given the proper attention.
terroir. Most people agree that the best cacao Unfortunately, the general perception of Asian
cacao has been poor. It is seen as a low-value
commodity – and treated as such, often being
Jerome Penafort handled and fermented haphazardly, leading to
less-than-ideal flavours and off-odours.
CULINARY
Flavours
The Philippines
“Cacao beans are sourced directly from
the northwest Calinan district of Davao
City. We work with Michael Tan who buys
wet cacao beans from smallholder farmers.
These are fermented and sun-dried in small
batches to ensure good quality and great
flavour notes.”
India
“We collaborate with Harish Manoj
Kumar who hails from a 12-year-old
cacao plantation located at the foothills of
Anaimalai Hills in Pollachi, Tamil Nadu.
His cacao beans are primarily Criollo and
A selection of chocolate drinks at Amelonado mixed, grown and intercropped
Mr. Bucket Chocolaterie Dempsey Factory with coconut and nutmeg.”
• 13 •
CULINARY
Top Toque
PERFECT PAIRINGS
BY
NIDA
SEAH
What’s it like to work in the restaurant business as a couple?
Two Singaporean husband-and-wife teams share how they
keep the flame alive in and out of the kitchen.
CULINARY
Top Toque
CULINARY
Top Toque
CULINARY
Top Toque
What made you decide to open your own Sweet Potato Bread
restaurant space?
Zi Yi: When Covid hit, I left my job, and Kai could
no longer do home dining due to the restrictions.
We decided to start selling bread and cheesecake
as a side hustle, and it gained popularity. When
things started opening up, I decided to invest my
time with Kai to build Chez Kai up together.
CULINARY
Top Toque
What are some of the challenges you've faced What are some of the most fun or memorable
while working with your husband/wife? How do times you’ve shared working together?
you resolve them? Zi Yi: It’s the simple things that make our days, such
Kai: Some challenges are interpersonal issues such as friendly guests, regulars that stay back and have a
as communication breakdown. Others are external drink with us. We also treasure the time we spend with
stressors such as family, finances and difficult our colleagues drinking, sharing laughter and stories.
customers. We also enjoy getting to Mythic on Mobile Legends
Zi Yi: We resolve them by talking it out, together (top rank in the online mobile game).
understanding that work is work and not to bring it
home. Sometimes when things get too heated, we Is it difficult to balance your work and personal lives
will walk away to cool off and deal with them only together?
after working hours when we are more level-headed. Kai: It was very challenging at first – juggling the
This gives us the opportunity to be able to have a restaurant, our wedding, moving houses and the
more logical discussion. many changes in a short span of two months.
However, thanks to our amazing staff at Chez Kai,
we managed to pull through. Our relationship at
home is great, we barely argue and still have a lot
of things in common to talk about. We have better
communication now as we have overcome many
adversities and challenges together.
ENTERTAINING
Cover Story
INDULGENCE
WITH
INTENTION BY
KENNETH LIM
&
Baker, business owner and self- NIDA SEAH
D
elcie’s Desserts and Cakes – a specialist in bakes “It started with eggs, then dairy, then sugar, and soon
both healthy and inclusive – was born close to we started attracting a niche group of customers,” she
a decade-and-a-half ago in the unlikeliest of adds. It was slow-going at first, but as vegan and sugar-light
circumstances. Its owner-baker, Delcie Lam, 39, was then cuisines made inroads into the culinary consciousness of the
a harried art director at an advertising firm who staved everyday consumer, business improved.
ENTERTAINING
Cover Story
Delcie Lam
Blueberry Cupcakes
GOING LOW
“The world ‘healthy’ is very subjective. Some people say
it is low sugar, or low fat – but how low is low, we don’t
know,” she says. “For me, my benchmark is I want to make
it as low in cholesterol as possible, by baking it without
eggs and dairy – the two main offenders that are high in
cholesterol. At the same time, we should stay away from
sugar – because it’s so addictive!”
In Lam’s estimation, this segment is an expanding
niche. “There is a growing demand for healthy food. Not
berry Cupcakes
just in Singapore, but on a worldwide scale. After Covid-19,
people are a lot more health-conscious and making sure
they’re living a healthier lifestyle,” she says.
As such, Lam is focussing her efforts this year on
expanding her distribution streams by supplying bakes
to cafes and hotels looking to get in on the action, and
perhaps expand her reach internationally.
ENTERTAINING
Cover Story
Photography
Jasper Yu, assisted by
Tang Jun Wen
Recipes
Delcie’s Desserts and Cakes
Props
Wine glasses, cake servers, tray,
wooden spoon, oval-shaped bowl,
round plates from Tangs
HUMMINGBIRD CAKE
Serves 8 | Bake time 30 min | Prep time 2 hr
Vegan and refined sugar-free
ENTERTAINING
Cover Story
ENTERTAINING
Cover Story
STRAWBERRY CHEESECAKE
Makes 2 | Serve 8 (per cheesecake) | Prep time 2.5 hr | Bake time 55 min
Vegan and refined sugar-free
ROUND VANILLA CAKE BASE Fold in dry mixture into the Melt vegan cream cheese using
140g unbleached wheat wet mixture (exclude apple bain-marie method.
flour cider vinegar).
4g baking soda Add in coconut oil, strawberry
2g baking powder Finally, add apple cider powder and jam
124g brown rice milk vinegar to the batter and mix
10g organic apple cider well quickly. Whipped vegan cream on the
vinegar side until soft-medium peaks.
64g organic dark agave Spoon well-mixed batter into Fold in whipped cream into
nectar a 6-inch (16cm) round baking cooled melted cream cheese.
36g unsweetened organic tin. Put into oven at 130°C for
apples puree (drained 55mins. Pour mixture into a 6-inch
excess liquid) round silicon mould. Set mould
73g rice bran oil When baked, remove from in the freezer for 1 hour.
3g organic vanilla bean oven and allow it to cool
paste completely before cutting the Remove and add a slice of
sponge into 2 layers. vanilla cake on top of the
Prepare all ingredients. mixture. Press in a little. Set
Preheat oven and lay CHEESECAKE FILLING mould back in the freezer
parchment paper in the 580g vegan cream cheese overnight to set.
baking tins 45g Korean strawberry
dried freezed powder Remove the frozen cheesecake
Sieve dry ingredients into a (unsweetened) from mould and add
big bowl. Mix them together. 62g melted extra virgin decorations before serving.
coconut oil
Prepare wet ingredients 160g sugar free strawberry
(excluding apple cider vinegar) jam
in another bowl. Mix them 68g vegan whipped
together. cream/whipped
coconut cream
• 25 •
• 26 •
SPECIAL FEATURE
DBS
theaphrodite.sg
1-For-1 Gelato
Valid from 1 November 2022 to 31 October 2023
• Available on weekdays only, from 1pm to 7pm.
• Usage of offer must be mentioned before ordering/payment.
• Valid for walk-ins, dine-in and takeaway.
• The restaurant reserves the right to make the final decision should a
dispute arise.
www.camelliateabar.com
SPECIAL FEATURE
DBS
CALI
CALI offers the bold, sophisticated flavours of the American
Southwest in a bright and airy setting. Our authentic
presentation of Southwestern cuisine and CALI’s relaxed yet
elegant ambiance make it a perfect place for lunchtime business
meetings, family gatherings, or intimate nights out. Discover
regional favourites like fajitas, quesadillas, grilled sea bass and
signature braised beef cheeks. There is also a generous selection
of vegetarian options. Bring your evening to a decadent
conclusion with the famous molten lava torte.
www.njgroup.sg
www.delcies.com
SCAN TO APPLY
SPECIAL FEATURE
DBS
www.edithpatisserie.com
1-For-1 Beverages
Valid from 1 November 2022 to 31 October 2023
• Promotion is only available from 2pm to 5pm on weekdays. Excludes ice-
blended drinks.
• Higher-priced drink will be charged
• Not valid on eve of and on public holidays, and any special/festive occasions.
• Valid in-store, applicable to both dine-in and takeaways at the Cake Bar outlet only.
• Both drinks must be redeemed on the spot (no split redemptions for a later date).
• Not valid with other promotional vouchers or discounts.
geniuscentralsingapore.com
SPECIAL FEATURE
DBS
www.facebook.com/dpenyetzsingapore
www.seiwaa.com.sg
SCAN TO APPLY
SPECIAL FEATURE
DBS
www.tamarindrestaurants.com/tamarind-hill-singapore
Taste of India
Taste Of India promises to bring you the freshest, best quality
ingredients to make your dining experience incredible. Step
into the restaurant to experience the wonderful fusion of North
and South Indian dishes. Enjoy a wide variety of Indian cuisine
such as Tandoor dishes, Chettinaadu dishes, Fish Head Curry
and many more.
www.tasteofindia.sg
SPECIAL FEATURE
DBS
Tigress
The sister brand to Kommune, a prime multi-gaming cafe
next door, Tigress is the latest addition to the 82 Social House
umbrella. Apart from its Japanese wagyu-fat-infused beef
burgers, this Korean-fusion gastro bar also serves a variety of
hand-stretched pizzas, tapas and a myriad of non-alcoholic and
alcoholic beverages. Within its botanical-themed interior is a
section with three eight-ball pool tables and one Korean four-
ball billiards table.
82soho.com/tigress
WESTEND
The West End, The Far End. It’s all fun and games till the last
piece is left on the plate. Who’s going to savour the last piece?
Eyes on the prize. Ready? Set? Go! This is how WESTEND is, the
offerings are simply irresistible and insatiable with just one
bite. How far would you go?
www.facebook.com/Westend511
SCAN TO APPLY
CULINARY
Kitchen
ASK
A CHEF
The experts from Humble
Bakery – known for their
artisanal scones and burnt
cheesecakes – are here to
Is there a difference between adding
help solve your kitchen woes. wet ingredients into dry vs adding
dry ingredients into wet one?
AXIAL FANG
E
ver wondered why your cakes It really depends on what you are making
and bakes don’t turn out the way and the results you are trying to achieve!
you want to? Homegrown brand For instance, if you are making a butter
Humble Bakery is here to help. Run by cake, you will have to cream the butter
founders Tan Zhuo Guan, Glenn Lai and with sugar first in order to create air cells
their new baker-partner Xieng Hui, the for the cake to rise, followed by flour
bakery is at the top of its game with its towards the end as you want less gluten
artisanal scones, burnt cheesecakes, to develop resulting in a more tender
brownies and cookies. Its products have cake. If you are making bread, you would
want to put liquids in first followed by dry I made a chocolate pound cake. The
been so popular that it has expanded
as the other way round will result in dry recipe uses buttermilk, butter, sugar
from an online bakery to a cafe at One
flour being stuck to the side of the bowl. and cocoa powder/self-raising flour. I’m
Raffles Place. It has also upped the ante
not sure if it’s because I split the recipe
by introducing more specialty bakes such
When folding/whisking a mixture, into two cake moulds instead of one
as loaf cakes and choux puffs. Read on
is it necessary to do so in one but I followed the recipe to the T, yet it
as the experts share their top tips for the
direction only? came out more crumbly and drier than
best bakes and cakes.
@SIG_ICE usual. Any tips for a better moist cake?
It is not necessary to whisk in one @3HAPPY_C
direction as air can be incorporated Majority of pound cake recipes call
either way through whisking. For for eggs, and this is a very important
folding, it is in one direction most of ingredient as it acts as a binder. It holds
the time as long as dry ingredients are ingredients together and makes cakes
incorporated. It is also smoother based less crumbly. I would recommend using a
on whichever hand you are using. pound cake recipe that uses eggs. Keep
an eye closely on the baking time to
When baking burnt cheesecake, how ensure the cake is not overbaked. After
do you make sure that the cake is not baking the cake, let it rest for five to 10
overburnt? minutes to let it firm up, then remove
PHOTOS COURTESY OF HUMBLE BAKERY
LIFESTYLE
Feature
SWEET SHOWSTOPPERS BY
EVE
TEDJA
Find out where to get your daily dose of desserts in Jakarta and Bali.
• 34 •
LIFESTYLE
Feature
JAKARTA
1. NAMELAKA
True to its name which means “smooth and creamy”
in Japanese, Namelaka has been garnering ardent
followers due to its addictive choux creations. Founded
by pastry chefs Ivan Setyawan and Yoan Tjahjadi,
Namelaka started off in 2016 selling online pastry
products made from fine-quality ingredients. Since
then, they have opened two in-store shops in Central
and North Jakarta, serving more than 15 flavours of
choux, cakes and plated desserts.
Unique local flavours like Tape (fermented cassava)
sit together with Honey Yuzu, Blue Cheese & Pear, and
Snickers. Each choux is topped with craquelin, adding
an extra texture to better enjoy the creamy puff. Its
latest must-try creation is Blossom Cake, made of
Oolong tea, Bavarian cream, white peach cream, jelly,
jam, and almond crunch. Open daily, 10am – 9pm.
Shophaus, Jl. Teuku Cik Ditiro No.36, Menteng. Tel:
+62 813 2023 2025
2. CONSERVATORY
Located on level 23 of Park Hyatt Jakarta,
Conservatory offers four different experiences
throughout the day. There’s the Library where one can
retreat to or work amid a serene setting filled with
objets d’art; the Living Room to socialise and view the
city’s iconic landmarks; the open-air Veranda; and last
but not least, the Patisserie.
The latter is the domain of pastry chef Ali Saleh,
baker John Tobing and their talented team. A
fabulous display of Peanut Caramel Tart, Pistachio
Raspberry, Date Pecan Choux, and other dainty
handcrafted sweets are served to satisfy the guests’
cravings. Combining a killer view of Jakarta’s skyline
and impeccable service, it is not a surprise that the
Conservatory’s Afternoon Tea is one of the de rigueur
experiences in town. Open daily, 10am – 10pm. Jl.
Kebon Sirih 17-19. Tel: +62 21 311 90333
• 35 •
LIFESTYLE
Feature
3. CRIO
Created as a one-stop culinary destination for dining
and drinking, Menteng’s new restaurant is powered
and founded by Richie Pratadaja. After spending
more than a decade working in the United States, he
decided to come back home in 2019 and set up his
own place. Since opening its doors last year, he has
quickly been recognised as one of the most exciting 4. RAFFLES PATISSERIE
chocolatiers in town. Putra Anom has been quietly garnering followers
Crio offers tapas-style dishes, solid cocktails because of his creative takes on cakes, special
as well as handcrafted chocolate bonbons, bars, hampers and afternoon tea. As Raffles Jakarta’s
petit gateau, and desserts. A theatrically huge pastry chef, he is responsible for creating beautifully
window showcases the tempering process of the handcrafted morsels for the hotel’s Raffles Patisserie,
chocolate, tempting guests to taste his beautifully Arts Café by Raffles’ highly coveted Sunday brunches,
displayed creations. Glossy bonbons and bars like and other special events.
Cashew, Pecan Praline, Rum Raisins, and more can His prowess in marrying French pastry techniques
be purchased for takeaway. However, there is no with Indonesian flavours and produce is evident in
better way to enjoy a special treat than to indulge Raffles Jakarta’s signature Tipsy Tea with Moët &
in something like Xocolatl – dark chocolate mousse, Chandon. With a glass of Champagne in hand, guests
cremeux, sponge, caramelised puffed rice, hazelnut are invited to savour delicacies such as Jasmine
praline – immediately, and preferably accompanied Honey Choux, Apricot & Elderflower, Pistachio Rose
by a glass of cocktail and a live jazz band. Open daily, Tart, Orange Blossom Chocolate, and Yuzu Lavender
7am – 10pm/2am on weekends. Jl. Teuku Cik Ditiro Sphere. Open daily, 8am – 9pm. Ciputra World, Jl.
No.43. Tel: +62 812 1001 5969 Prof. Dr. Satrio Kav.3- 5. Tel: +62 855 8155 888
• 36 •
LIFESTYLE
Feature
BALI
1. POWDER ROOM
Room 4 Dessert, the venerated
dessert establishment in Ubud,
has opened a new candy store
next door. Guests are welcome
to “grab and grow” their fresh
and delicious sweet treats or
take some time to sit down
and slowly devour a cup of
soft-serve ice cream (soursop
yoghurt with palm sugar syrup
and housemade 67 percent
toblerone shard, anyone?). True
to the ethos of R4D, everything
is made from local ingredients,
natural colourings and without
preservatives. Find classic twists
such as Botanical Bombolonis with
delightful fillings like vanilla cream 2. KOHAKU
and mulberry with housemade Deriving its inspiration from a
ricotta and Garden Gummies 200-year-old traditional Japanese
made of rosella kombucha. Open confectionery, Kohaku handcrafts
Tuesday – Sunday, 11am – 9pm. visually stunning and naturally
Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. made sweet gems from various
Tel: +62 812 2837 5032 dried fruits, herbs, spices, flowers,
and teas. The name comes from
the word kohakuto, a seaweed-
based agar and sugar wagashi.
A collaboration between
Daijiro Horikoshi, Heru Young and
Francois Milcent, Kohaku offers 3. BUTTERMAN
a unique Zen-like experience Less than two years after opening its first store in
in Canggu. Guests are invited Canggu, this croissanterie has just expanded to
to have a seat and taste the Jakarta at the end of last year. The secret of their
Butterfly Pea and Volcanic Sea success? A stream of freshly baked viennoiserie,
Salt in the form of aquamarine premium quality ingredients and consistently great
gemstone crystal; a crunchy, products. Excellent flaky, buttery and layered
amber-like Pistachio and Apricot croissants are the backbone of Butterman but
or a tourmaline-shaped Black there are other reasons why queues are formed
Sesame. Pair the gems with every day in front of its small shop even before
organic tea from Jatiluwih or bring they open at 6.30am. The reasons are Chocolatine,
them home as a souvenir in a box. Raspberry Pistachio Roll, and Eggy Tart – just a few
Open Tuesday – Sunday, 10am – of chef Stephane Simond’s creations. Open daily,
6pm. Jl. Pantai Berawa. 6.30am onwards. Jl. Pantai Berawa No. 10.
Tel: +62 813 3710 3936 Tel: +62 811 396 00050
• 37 •
LIFESTYLE
Feature
6. SUNDARA
Refined cakes and desserts from Four Seasons
Resorts Bali’s executive pastry chef David Peduzzi
can be tasted at Sundara, Jimbaran’s beachfront
culinary and lifestyle destination. The French chef
unpacks a lot of experience and artistry into his
creations from more than 17 years working in six
Four Seasons properties in five countries.
Be it a leisurely poolside lunch or a romantic
dinner date, taste his creations on the menu
such as All About Mango – a homage to the
quintessence tropical fruit. It is a delightfully
refreshing dessert made of crunchy meringue,
mango cream and sorbet, passion fruit sauce, and
5. POTTERY CAFE
jeruk nipis marmalade. Alternatively, order a box of
Situated on the ground floor
nine Sundara’s signature cakes to take home. Open
of Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak
daily, 11am – 1am. Jl. Bukit Permai, Jimbaran.
Beach, Pottery Cafe is a
Tel: +62 361 708333
discreet, cosy place to relax,
4. KANVAZ PÂTISSERIE BY work or meet up with friends.
VINCENT NIGITA With mismatched chairs,
Located in front of Kanvaz cheerful yellow-dominated
Village Resort Seminyak, the interior, and indoor and outdoor
sleek space houses a retail outlet seating, enjoy the aroma of
and an outdoor patio. A striking coffee wafting through the
blue monochrome colour runs air and the gentle whirring
through the interior, showcasing of espresso machines. Make
BEACH, BUTTERMAN, FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT JIMBARAN BAY,
SPECIAL FEATURE
Anjalichocolat
Heart of success
Anjali describes her chocolates as an “affordable
luxury” and reveals that her favourite food is, well,
chocolate. When she first set up her business in
Singapore, there were not many artisan chocolatiers
who made and sold chocolates using fresh, natural
ingredients. One could not easily get a box of
Anjali Gupta
• 39 •
SPECIAL FEATURE
Anjalichocolat
www.facebook.com/portfoliomagsg
www.instagram.com/portfoliomagsg
www.linkedin.com/company/portfolio-magazine-singapore
• 41 •
CULINARY
Feature
CULINARY
Feature
LUZERNE
Luzerne designs and creates bespoke fine china for
many of the world’s highly regarded brands in the
food, hospitality, retail and airline industries. This
homegrown brand has come a long way, starting
as a pottery trading company in 1947 before
evolving into the global ceramic tableware
powerhouse it is today.
It recently celebrated its 75th anniversary with
the opening of The Luzerne, Singapore – its flagship
gallery and retail outlet along Bendemeer Road. It
features three elevated experiential aspects of the
brand: The Gallery (for hotel and restaurant clients),
The Shop (its first retail outlet in Singapore housing
over 3,000 unique pieces of Luzerne ceramics from 40
collections), and The Residence (its corporate office).
luzerne.com Bliss
Pearl
• 43 •
CULINARY
Feature
Evergreen
• 44 •
CULINARY
Feature
Plates from
Miyake Ceramics Sabiya Hiwa plate
Kigoromo short
rim plates
• 45 •
CULINARY
Feature
Miyake Ceramics
ARTIFACTT
Artifactt is the newest tableware retailer to hit our
shores with the aim to “connect artisanal makers and
creators with collectors and homeowners”. Founded
by Chris Lee and Annie Li in 2021, the shop at Palais
Renaissance offers award-winning brands sourced
from a growing network of artists and craftspeople.
From sculptural keepsakes to functional
statement pieces, customers will find tableware
and drinkware from across Japan and Europe such
as Serax (a Belgium tableware and furniture label)
and Utsuwa to Design (by Japanese pottery artist
Yuta Miyazaki). The founders only work with artists
that prize attention to detail, and respect age-
old techniques and traditions. In the pipeline are
collaborations with local artists and Singaporean
designers to showcase their creations.
www.artifactt.com
• 46 •
CULINARY
Feature
Spices from
La Plantation
Andaman free-form
side plate
CULINARY
Feature
Charcoal Grill
free-form pasta bowl
• 48 •
Vine Expectations
Vine Expectations
I
t’s easy to fall in love with Montalcino. The Montalcino – sangiovese grossoo has a smaller
UNESCO World Heritage Site is a fortressed berry, a brownish hue (brunello means “the brown
Tuscan village two hours from Florence. Stone-cast one”), and is akin to pinot noir in that it vividly
medieval walls dating to the 13th century surround expresses site differences. The wines are decidedly
the hilltop town, dripping in bucolic charm. The more concentrated, fuller-bodied, and capable of
meandering cobblestone streets, bell towers, and long ageing.
sun-soaked piazzas soak and glisten in the Tuscan By law, Brunello wine must be a pure expression
sunlight. The village is lined with artisanal shops, rustic of sangiovese grosso – a distinction afforded to
Italian restaurants, and enotecas or wine shops stacked only Montalcino in Tuscany, where most wines are
PHOTOS COURTESY OF CASANOVA DI NERI AND IL MARRONETO
with the two wines that define the region – Brunello blends – and released to market after four years
di Montalcino and the younger version, Rosso di of ageing. In the case of riserva, it is five years of
Montalcino. which two must be in oak.
You will find a slew of vantage points to take in the The decommissioned grapes, or younger
views of the tiled ochre roofs, undulating lands, and plantings, make Rosso di Montalcino a more
verdant lines of vines. Brunello and Rosso’s vineyards approachable red, which ages for a year and is
surround the town in every direction. primed for everyday drinking. It ensures the 250
producers in the region have good cash flow while
THE WINES the elder sibling, Brunello, takes half a decade to hit
Brunello di Montalcino is Italy’s celebrated long- the shelves.
lived red wine, an exalted expression of the The region is home to 250 wineries, deeply
sangiovese grape. This version differs from the dedicated to their craft and mostly small-scale and
one found in, say, Chianti or Montepulciano. family run. Together they tend to 3,500 hectares of
Sangiovese’s genetic mutation or clone found in vineyard, surrounded by 31,000 hectares of forest lands.
• 50 •
Vine Expectations
BIONDI SANTI
Wine pilgrims pay homage to Biondi Santi,
the iconic estate where Clementi Santi created
the single-varietal Brunello style in 1880. Later
generations of the Biondi Santi family helped codify
the rules for Brunello Consorzio in 1960 when the
region was awarded a DOC status (and later, the
DOCG status, the highest endowment in Italy) and of Montalcino village are cooler, and those in
launched the wine style for many to follow. the south are warmer. But that is a sweeping
More so, the choice of ageing in large generalisation. With a patchwork of ancient soils
Slovenian casks instead of French barrique is ranging from galestro to clay, sites show their
credited to Biondi Santi as well, a practice still personality irrespective of their positioning on the
preferred by traditional producers. map.
Of the three wines produced – Biondi Santi Being hilly, Montalcino vineyards are located
Riserva is the highest expression, made in 500m to 950m above sea level, benefiting from
exceptional years. Brunello di Montalcino Annata wide diurnal temperature ranges which add
is made from a selection of vineyards. acidity to the wines. More so, vintners consider
The estate owns various plots around the aspect of the vineyard. Exposure to sun, soils,
Montalcino, a common practice adopted across and gradient of slope aid in crafting a slew of
the region. Broadly, sites located in the north expressions of the one grape – sangiovese.
Vine Expectations
IL MARRONETO
Alessandro Mori, the owner and winemaker of Il
Marroneto, has 49 vintages under his belt and is
a traditionalist. He says, “Marroneto is my life, and
sangiovese is the colour used to paint my life”
The 6.5-hectare estate is named after a nearby
13th-century building used to grind chestnuts into
flour. It is located on the northern side of Montalcino,
elevated at 500m above sea level.
Mori learned his craft from two teachers – Mario
Cortevesio and Giulio Gambelli – whom he credits
for his wine style. His wine today, he says, reflects
the lessons they imparted to him in the first year. The
Alessandro Mori has 49 vintages single vineyard expression, Madonna Delle Grazie, is
of Il Marroneto under his belt celebrated as one of the best in the region.
Vineyards of Il Marroneto
• 52 •
Vine Expectations
Sangiovese harvest
at Il Marroneto
Mori emphasises the importance of the “hand of
man” in winemaking, In the vineyards, he practices
organic viticulture, and the cellar is where he
expresses his art.
“They call me a wine artist – a man that expresses
himself with wines. I can only do this because I work
with sangiovese.” Sangiovese, he says, shows a
man’s personality, not just the personality of the land.
His son, Iacopo, has joined the business, and
Mori is passing on the knowledge “slowly, slowly” to
the next generation.
CASANOVA DI NERI
“Montalcino is a magical place for sangiovese,” says
Giacomo Neri, winemaker at Casanova di Neri.
“We have vineyards in different locations of
Montalcino, in the northeast and southeast,” he
elaborates. But unlike other producers, Casanova
• 53 •
Vine Expectations
Harvest time
di Neri wines are mainly crafted as single single-site In Asia, the wines are just as famous as
expression. Among these, the highest status belongs Bordeaux, says Master of Wine Richard Hemming.
to Cerretalto, and the most popular block is Tenuta “Brunello has similar popularity to classic Bordeaux
Nuova, producing 65,000 bottles. reds such as St-Émilion – and it is stylistically similar
The latest acquisition is the seven-hectare Tocci too. For wine lovers that prefer a robust, powerful
vineyard, already planted with 45-year-old vines. The red, Brunello is well-known as a good option. In
resulting first vintage, Giovanni Neri 2018, has just Singapore, lighter reds such as pinot noir have
been released in January 2023. become more popular recently, but there are
Over time, he elaborates that wine styles have certainly plenty of drinkers still opting for
remained the same, but they have more depth as fuller styles.”
the vineyards are older. “The name is Tenuta Nuova Among other producers, Soldera, Il Poggiolo,
(new estate), but the plants are old. The wines are Col d’Orcia, Castel Giocondo, Le Chiuse, Conti
more persistent and more complex. Last night, I drank Costanti, and Valdicava are highly rated.
Tenuta Nuova 1998, and it’s still vibrant.” As the rules state, the 2018 vintage will be
Casanova di Neri is amongst the top producers released worldwide this January. Notably, the 2016
of Brunello. Of the special touch, Neri says, “75 vintage received excellent reviews, as has 2015.
percent of it is the terroir, and 25 percent is our Other vintage for collectors includes 2001, 2004,
patience, our experience, our work.” 2006, 2007, 2010, and 2012.
• 54 •
WINE
Cellar’s Choice
PROFOUND REDS
Lebanon, a wine framed by civil
war, financial turmoil and dogged
perseverance. Widely popular around the
world for its signature blend of cabernet
sauvignon, carignan and cinsault, Musar is
These rich, redolent reds from Lebanon, Spain and California released after a long ageing of seven years.
The 2016 is perfumed and lifted with
are best savoured over thoughtful conversations. dried flowers, plum and mulberry coulis.
Its supple, textured and unfurls with an
hour of decanting.
$105, Pinnacle Wine and Spirits
PROMONTORY 2015
Discovered by the famed Harlan family,
Promontory is a steep hillside estate
positioned across the Oakville and
Yountville regions in Napa Valley. The
patchwork of vineyards hides behind
woodlands, forests and fog, and are
cultivated with minimal intervention on
volcanic and metamorphic soils. Each
vintage ages in Austrian oak for five years,
a unique choice preferred by Barolo
producers. The 2015 vintage is laden with
aromatics – from floral to cassis, olives
and mulberries. It is rich and dense with
polished tannins.
$1,499, 1855 The Bottle Shop
• 55 •
SPIRITS
Cellar’s Choice
SOME MARRIAGES
ARE MADE IN OAK
These single malt whiskies are matured over decades in a blend
of casks, making them the finest expressions of liquid gold.
BOWMORE ARC-52
ARC-52 is the oldest whisky released
by the Islay distillery. Continuing the
partnership with car manufacturer,
Aston Martin, the whisky comes
in a futuristic contoured decanter
envisioned by Aston Martin car
designers. As for the drop, its nuances
reveal themselves with every sip.
Expect layers of vanilla, mint, exquisite
tropical fruits, chocolate, and tobacco
leaves. Matured in American oak
hogshead and European oak butt casks
seasoned first with sherry, this is a
marriage made in oak heaven.
Available on request, Bowmore.com
Bar At Home
Celery
The low-alcohol drink is perfect
for a holistic start to the year.
MAKES 1
INGREDIENTS
5ml Mussalano Bianco
Vermouth
15ml Suze gentian
liqueur*
2 dashes celery bitters
15ml fresh celery juice
20ml fresh lemon juice
10ml simple syrup (1:1
water and sugar ratio)
30ml soda water
30ml tonic water
Celery curls or lemon wheel
for garnish
Collins/highball glass
METHOD
Add all ingredients to a Collins
or highball glass.
The bitterness of the celery and Fill the glass with ice.
FLOW BAR
RICKY PAIVA
stores or substitute with Salers or
PHOTOS
Chartreuse gentiane.
• 57 •
Bar At Home
FREE FLOW
Bar veteran Ricky Paiva finds a new home at Flow Bar
The cocktail bar
on Duxton Hill where he mixes drinks sans pretension. at Flow Bar
A
t Flow Bar, we highly recommend starting with master craftsmanship, his disarming hospitability, or the
the Celery (featured on the opposite page), trademark pencil-tipped moustache (which has since
followed by She So Shiso. Be deliberately slow been trimmed off to a more traditional length). He is
as you sip them. Take your time and parse through the celebrating the first anniversary of Flow Bar, launched
layers of flavours – sweet, savoury and saline. in collaboration with one-Michelin-starred Restaurant
“I love shiso,” shares Ricky Paiva, the bar-guru- JAG led by chef-owner Jeremy Gillon.
veteran leading Flow Bar. “To me, it’s the tonka bean “All my cocktails are like music that have already
of the earth. You get that slight mentha note from been written, and it is up to the artist to give it a new
peppermint, a rounded sweetness from hibiscus, and sound,” Paiva says, going over the 19-cocktail harmony
this beautiful green cora-filled notes. So many flavours he has created for Flow Bar. “Every cocktail we create
that come off from that one leaf.” has a ‘backbone’, an old classic cocktail, and we are
You’ve probably spotted the leaf served in sushi only modernising it at Flow Bar.”
and sashimi plates, and while it is often used in The bar favourite Expresso Martini is a synthesis of
cocktails, seldom is it paired with melon, tempering Paiva’s life experiences. “Growing up, my mother will
the fruit’s sweetness with its minty, herbaceous and always make dulce de leche desserts or add dulce de
spicy notes. leche into the coffee.” He tried to do a similar espresso
Paiva’s experienced hand comes into play as he martini-style cocktail at Manhattan. “The drink never
marries each ingredient to seamlessly create ripples of took off. Singapore consumers weren’t ready to have
flavours in the She So Shiso cocktail, from the Botanist such a different type of espresso martini.”
gin to the honey and shiso-flavoured sugar syrup and As he revisited the drink at Flow Bar, he
shiso bitters. For garnish, he uses a compressed melon unintentionally added a touch of caramelisation on top
ball soaked in saline-umami juices. for the photoshoot. “The photographer happened to
A native Californian, Paiva has called Singapore capture the smoke coming off the glass, and it was so
home since 2014 when he was invited to launch beautiful. It led to us wanting to serve it in this manner,
Manhattan Bar. Everyone knows him, either for his at the tableside of our guests.”
The nosh is sourced from Restaurant JAG
and selected by Paiva. “Each plate will reflect my
Ricky Paiva Californian vibe – fresh, light, seasonal with Jeremy’s
French refinement.” Expect celeriac hummus
dressed in linseed and sunflower seeds, a platter of
Savoie cheese and cold cuts or the JAG signature
Croque Monsieur.
I ask him if he can define Ricky’s touch. He obliges,
“Perhaps ‘Ricky’s touch’ is the knowledge of the
foundation of original classic cocktails but with a small
twist to reach that magical balance. It may sound
simple, but years of experience and a developed
palate are required.”
Flow Bar is at 76A Duxton Road, Singapore 089535.
Tel: 8028 5865.
• 58 •
LIFESTYLE
EXCELLENCE IN MOTION
The Workshop on European Food highlighted the merits of EU products through a cooking
demonstration and culinary challenge, and proved why they are #morethanfood.
LIFESTYLE
A display of EU food
and drink products
• 60 •
LIFESTYLE
FRESH CATCH
Norwegian Seafood Council presented
Norwegian shellfish to Singapore’s top
Statsraad Lehmkuhl
chefs on board the 108-year-old tall ship
Statsraad Lehmkuhl.
LIFESTYLE
LIFESTYLE
LIFESTYLE
LIFESTYLE
LIFESTYLE
A toast to the
memorable evening
In the 2001 – 5000 sqf category, Yaakov Turjeman
(CCA Studio) and LAANK won Bronze for North Miznon
Singapore. Highly commended were Hot Design Folks for
Best of homegrown and international talents Asador, and PAI Studio Pte Ltd for Si Chuan Dou Hua and
The IDEA Gold Winner for Best F&B Design * 5001 sqf Spice Brassiere. In the ) 2000 sqf category, engine Inc
went to greymatters for the project Restaurant Born, was awarded Silver for Shinjuku Ale. The Bronze award
located within the iconic Jinrikisha Station in Singapore. went to three firms: Spacebar Design for Hue Restaurant;
The firm embraced the architecture and space presented
Plain Design for Linger On; and Hot Design Folks for
to them – what was once the station’s ticket hall is now
Yen Social. YWA Studio was Highly Commended for
the main dining room with expansive double volume
space surrounded by beautiful arches. Peter Gentenaar’s Bakeaholic Cafe.
sculpture, which is suspended from the ceiling, highlights SPADE winner for Best F&B Design went to Basil
the contrast between the old and new while manifesting Rico Gahi, University of San Carlos, who won Bronze
chef-owner Zor Tan’s circle-of-life journey. for Pabukid Restaurant. Highly Commended were
Yeo Shan Fei, Temasek Polytechnic, for In-fuse; Lim
Wei Sheng Lennon, Nanyang Polytechnic, for Kafein
Cafe; Khoirunnisa’ Binte Azmi, Nanyang Polytechnic,
for Kaleidoscope Cafe, and Koh Charmayne, Nanyang
Polytechnic, for Nintendo X Lego Cafe.
Winning entries were selected by a jury panel
comprising accomplished and respected interior design
professionals: IDCS president Cameron Woo and founder
of Cameron Woo Design; Ed Ng, principal and co-founder
of ab concept; Amy Van, contributing editor of D+A;
Shigeru Kubota, chairman of Japan Environmental Design
Association; Su Seam Teo, partner of LTW Designworks.
North Miznon
• 66 •
PEOPLE
Perspectives
THE PLACEMAKER
BY
Founder and creative partner of BLINK Design Group
NIDA
SEAH
Clint Nagata shares his award-winning ways and reveals why it’s
no longer sufficient to simply have a design that looks good.
Clint Nagata
• 67 •
PEOPLE
Perspectives
B
LINK Design Group has been on a roll. From How did your journey in interior design begin,
the serene contemporary spaces at Roku Kyoto and why did you choose to specialise in hotels
to the modern bohemian interiors of W Dubai, and resorts?
the multi-disciplinary design studio led by founder What sparked my journey as an interior designer was
Clint Nagata has been introducing travel-hungry my belief that the best buildings are designed from
guests to a new era of post-pandemic experiences. the inside out. As an architect, I often found myself
“Hotels and resorts are more than a place for beginning the design process by doing just that –
people to sleep,” says Nagata. “Rather, they are creating spaces that flowed from the inside out.
environments that create memories.” Together I’ve always loved to travel and explore different
with his team, the Japanese-American spearheads destinations. Being able to design luxury hotels
projects under a guiding philosophy he has and resorts across the world makes coming to
dubbed “placemaking”. work every day a rewarding experience.
These spaces are conceptualised and realised
through smart design and sustainable solutions rooted Where do you get your ideas from?
in the culture and heritage of the locale. Last year At the start of every project, we spend an
saw six properties launched, including the “once-in-a- inordinate amount of time embedding ourselves
generation” renovation of Millennium Hilton Bangkok. into the place in order to create a refined design
It’s a design philosophy that has earned the that captures the true essence of a place without
firm – which has studios in Thailand, Shanghai and being cliche.
Singapore – numerous accolades for its projects.
The latest, however, went to Nagata himself where You’ve had quite a few projects last year. Is there
a particular project that stands out to you?
he was awarded Interior Designer of the Year
2022 – Designers’ Choice at the 9th Annual Design I had the opportunity to stay at Regent Phu Quoc
Excellence Awards. We speak to him about his which we designed five years ago, and it just
journey into interior design, recent projects, and opened recently. It’s a good representation of the
plans for 2023. studio’s refined design ethos.
• 68 •
PEOPLE
Perspectives
Roku Kyoto
Ginger Moon restaurant at Can you share some interior design trends for hotels
W Dubai – Mina Seyahi CPFTGUQTVU!|
In this day and age where the need to stand out and
be different has never been more important, hotels and
resorts must connect to their guests through stories.
It’s no longer good enough to have a design that
looks good. The design must tell a story or create a
compelling connection with the guest.
LIFESTYLE
Epicure Loves
Blancpain Villeret
Traditional Chinese
Calendar Year of the
Water Rabbi
The rabbit in the Chinese zodiac is
a symbol of longevity, prosperity,
compassion and grace. To welcome
the Year of the Water Rabbit, Blancpain
has unveiled a new edition of its Villeret
Traditional Chinese Calendar model.
Crafted from platinum and powered
by the calibre 3638 self-winding
movement, this 50-piece limited edition
watch displays the main indications
of the Chinese lunar calendar on a
white grand feu enamel dial, while its
oscillating weight honours the new
year’s zodiac sign with two rabbits.
At the top are the zodiac animals
window and sub-dial with double
hours (an ancient Chinese method
of timekeeping). The sub-dial at 3
o’clock indicates the five elements
and 10 celestial pillars, while the lunar
months and days with leap month
indicator are shown at 9 o’clock.
A blued steel serpentine hand
points to the dates of the Gregorian
calendar on the periphery of the dial.
Blancpain’s signature complication, the
moonphase, is also represented.
For more information, visit Boutique
Blancpain Singapore at The Shoppes at
Marina Bay Sands or authorised dealers.
www.blancpain.com
• 70 •
TRAVEL
Luxe Stays
• 71 •
TRAVEL
Luxe Stays
WHAT’S ON
Breakfast at Zest
CONRAD BANGKOK
From deluxe rooms to the presidential was a favourable option as I could avoid
suite (391 in total), the hotel’s interiors are the city’s notorious traffic.
the brainchild of Ray Chuang, of Cheng The Executive Lounge is where
Chung Design. Gold and brushed-bronze guests converge for breakfast – it is open
elements fill the Executive King Room, to Diamond Hilton Honors members
which is furnished with traditional Thai as well as those who stay in Executive
decor and natural wood accents. State- Rooms. The international spread includes
of-the-art technology are aplenty, only dim sum, pancakes, fried rice and
with thoughtful touches in the form of noodles as well as a salad bar, among
an intelligent climate control system, others. Surplus of untouched food from
calibrated lights and digital key access. the daily buffet is donated to Scholars
While Conrad Bangkok’s prime of Sustenance, a food rescue foundation
location made it easy for me to duck out in Thailand which benefits low-income
for a Michelin-starred meal, staying in families and refugees.
Diplomat Bar
• 72 •
TRAVEL
Luxe Stays
www.hilton.com/en/hotels/
The City Terrace
bkkcici-conrad-bangkok
• 73 •
TRAVEL
Luxe Stays
Zest
Five Island
Pool Villa
Any cravings are kept to a
minimum at Conrad Koh Samui’s six
CONRAD KOH SAMUI restaurants and bars — Azure Bar and
For a complete change of scenery, Grill, Botanikka, Jahn, KO Lounge,
head to Koh Samui in the Gulf of Seakret Bar and Zest — where there
Thailand. The one-lane roads, while is a good mix of Asian and Western
twisting, exhibit the charm of the cuisines. Emphasis is on organic
island. On the southwestern coast is produce harvested from their on-
Conrad Koh Samui where it welcomes property Iris Farm, which spans two
guests with an impressive open-air acres and practises the hotel’s zero-
lobby and luxury villas perched on the waste, farm-to-table philosophy.
side of a hill. Leaving my own pool villa Currently, the Iris Farm provides
was hard, with features like a private the ultra-luxury hotel with 65 percent
infinity pool, furnished open-deck of its food needs. As I plodded
terrace and stunning ocean view. around sharp-eyed hens and ducks
• 74 •
TRAVEL
Luxe Stays
at Botanikka
green coffee beans are grown, hand-
picked and harvested by the Lisu Tribe
from the mountains of Chiang Rai,
www.hilton.com/en/hotels/usmksci-conrad-koh-samui
before the hotel takes over the roasting
process in-house. The lower level of
the converted two-storey villa houses
an eco-garden of microgreens and
AND KOH SAMUI
LIFESTYLE
Cookbook Critic
FULL OF FLAVOUR
Good & Sweet: A New Way to Bake with Naturally
Sweet Ingredients shines the spotlight on 100
recipes for real desserts, sweetened entirely
by fruit, vegetables, grains and other natural,
unexpectedly sweet ingredients.
M
BY aybe you’ve heard…sugar isn’t all that great
PRIYANKA for you. So imagine a decadent sticky toffee
ELHENCE
pudding sweetened purely by fruit. That’s
exactly what talented pastry chef Brian Levy is all
about in Good & Sweet: A New Way to Bake with
Naturally Sweet Ingredients. Having spent decades
making pastries the traditional way (with mountains
of refined sugar and white flour), Levy had a
breakthrough moment when he succeeded in making
a perfect mango custard, harnessing only the natural
sweetness of fruit with no added sugar.
Levy now shares his new world of desserts
Good & Sweet: A New Way to Bake
with Good & Sweet, one that few bakers have with Naturally Sweet Ingredients
explored. Say goodbye to cane sugar, molasses, by Brian Levy retails for
concentrated saps, and sugar substitutes. Instead, US$29.99 on www.amazon.com.
he ingeniously uses only fruit (dried, juiced, and
fresh), nuts, grains, dairy, and fermented products
to create his sweet treats, enriched by whole-food, corn forms the basis for the crumbly crust that holds
feel-good ingredients and their natural flavours. the dried fig puree filling. Likewise, the same freeze-
Plus, every recipe offers substitutions for dietary dried sweet corn is the magic ingredient in Levy’s
restrictions and includes a flavourful sweetener that Rosemary-Lemon Shortbread cookies. And yes, you
exceeds cane sugar, from freeze-dried sweet corn really can make Perfect Currant Scones from just the
to coconut cream and apple cider. sweetness of the currants, as Levy directs.
PUBLISHER: AVERY, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN
AUTHOR: BRIAN LEVY; IMAGES: KRISTIN TEIG
Peach Galette gets its wings from fresh fruit, dried agree more. My favourite line in the book is when
apricots, and orange juice; while chestnuts, golden Levy says, “But if you never make a single recipe
raisins, and dried apples are the building blocks for exactly as written, I trust that you’ll learn something
his Chestnut Ricotta Ice Cream. I also recommend new about fruits or about sugars or about baking in
his Fig Crostata recipe, where freeze-dried sweet general.” Do I really need to say anything else?
• 76 •
LIFESTYLE
Cookbook Critic
• 77 •
LIFESTYLE
Cookbook Critic
INGREDIENTS
¾ cup + 1 tbsp buttermilk
(185 g)
1 large egg
3¼ cups CNNRWTRQUGƃQWT
(390g)
3¾ tsp baking powder
(15g)
Scant ½ tsp salt Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and
8 tbsp unsalted butter, cold, cut divide it into 2 equal pieces. Pat each of these 2 pieces
(114g) into ½-inch cubes into a ball and roll each ball out to a round 5½ inches
1 cup dried Zante currants (14cm) in diameter and 1 inch (2.5cm) thick. Slice each
(145g) round into 6 wedges and transfer them to the lined pan
Heavy cream or melted butter, for brushing with at least 1 inch of space between them. Brush the
top of each scone with heavy cream or melted butter.
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat
the oven to 425°F (219°C). Line a 13 X 18-inch (33cm X Bake until puffed and golden, 15 to 18 minutes.
46cm) half-sheet pan with parchment paper. Serve the scones as soon as you can, or let them
cool to room temperature. Store in an airtight
In a spouted cup, lightly whisk together the buttermilk container at room temperature for up to 2 days, or
and egg and set aside. split them, freeze them for up to 2 months, and toast
them when you’re ready.
In a large bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder,
and salt. Drop the butter into the flour and rub it into VARIATION:
the flour with your fingertips until it’s something like Chestnut Flour Currant Scones
soft sand. Add the currants and toss to coat them with • Increase the buttermilk by 1 tbsp.
flour. Pour in the buttermilk/egg mixture and mix briefly • Reduce the all-purpose flour to 2¼ cups (270g)
with your hands or a wooden spoon or rubber spatula and add 1½ cups (175g) chestnut flour.
just until it comes together as a scraggly dough. • Reduce the currants to Ҁ cup (100g).
• 78 •
LIFESTYLE
Cookbook Critic
INGREDIENTS
13½ tbsp unsalted butter, at room
(200g) temperature
1 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped
1ѿ cups CNNRWTRQUGƃQWT
(185g)
7 tbsp cornstarch Scoop half the dry ingredients into the butter and mix
(40g) just until all the dry ingredients are moistened. Add the
1¾ cups lightly packed freeze-dried remaining dry ingredients, and pulse just until it forms
(70g) sweet corn (see Note) an even, loose, sandy texture.
½ cup date sugar
(70g) Empty the dough into your parchment-lined pan(s)
¼ tsp salt and press it very hard (use your bodyweight) with
Butter for the pan(s) your fingers and the heel of your hand to form a
Grated lemon zest from ½ lemon level surface. Use a fork to gently score cut lines that
divide the dough into 16 cookies (8 wedges each if
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat you are using round pans; 16 squares if you are using
the oven to 300°F (149°C). Lightly grease two 6-inch a square pan).
(15cm) round metal pans or one 8-inch (20cm)
square metal pan and line the pan(s) with parchment. Bake until golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Just after taking
the shortbread out of the oven, with the shortbread still
In a stand mixer (or in a bowl with a hand mixer), in the pan(s), use a sharp knife to slice along the scored
beat the softened butter with the rosemary and lines. Let cool completely before serving (they are even
lemon zest on medium-high speed until it’s creamy. better after a couple of hours) and store in an airtight
container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.
In a food processor, combine the flour, cornstarch,
freeze-dried corn, date sugar, and salt. Pulse a NOTE:
few times to break up the corn, then continue to As a substitute for the 70g of freeze-dried sweet
process for about 1 minute to pulverise everything corn, you can use 6 tbsp (52g) cornflour + 2 tbsp
to a fine powder. (18g) date sugar.
• 79 •
LIFESTYLE
Cookbook Critic
• 80 •
LIFESTYLE
Style Buzz
HEART WARES
BY Make every day Valentine’s Day by
NIDA
SEAH surprising your loved ones with
these delightful gifts.
LIFESTYLE
Style Buzz
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PERFECT PAIRINGS
Two husband-and-wife teams
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CULINARY
Food Talk
DON’T
SUGARCOAT IT
BY
PRIYANKA
Have your cake and eat it too,
ELHENCE with healthy sugar alternatives and
sweeteners explained.
G
ranulated sugar is the standard ingredient for
most baking recipes, but as people become
increasingly mindful of their personal health,
PHOTO: ISTOCK
there is a growing demand for a variety of natural
sweeteners and sugar alternatives.
Like sugar, sweeteners provide that sweet,
comforting and addictive taste, but what sets them
apart is that they don’t increase blood sugar levels
after being consumed. But most of the sweeteners
comprise non-nutritious “weird” complex chemicals Other natural sweeteners are nutritive (which do
that could potentially disrupt your metabolism, elevate contain calories), such as non-refined sugar sources
blood sugar and disrupt the body’s ability to properly like honey, maple syrup, and coconut sugar. Coconut
metabolise glucose, so perhaps they aren’t the best sugar is derived from the sap of flower buds of the
solution you were looking for anyway. coconut palm tree; maple syrup is made from the
With so much focus on provenance of ingredients, boiled sap of sugar maple trees; while dates add fibre
quality and indeed their method of production, most and vitamins. Likewise, honey, though sweeter than
people naturally want to eat as healthy as possible, sugar, is often heralded as the golden nectar loaded
without compromising on taste or texture. So what’s with health-promoting enzymes, minerals, antioxidants
the next best thing to use instead of sugar and and prebiotics. Choose raw honey over processed, as
chemically produced sugar alternatives? the high heat used during the processing can destroy
The healthiest alternative to sugar is whole fruits, many of the beneficial compounds.
followed by (non-sugar added) dried fruits, as they Can’t believe it’s that simple? Follow the
contain added nutrients and fibre. For instance, Cookbook Critic recipes on page 75 for Perfect
applesauce and mashed bananas are the perfect Scones using dried Zante currants for the sweet notes,
healthy sweetener substitutes for baked goods, and for Rosemary-Lemon Shortbread using only
adding moisture to the bake, while reducing the freeze-dried sweet corn and date sugar. And I’m not
amount of fat needed. even sugarcoating it.
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